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	<title>Beekeeping in Varina, Virginia</title>
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	<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com</link>
	<description>Adventures of a Beginning Beekeeper</description>
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		<title>First Full Inspections of the Year</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/swarms/full-inspections-year.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/swarms/full-inspections-year.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Feb 2012 01:54:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Nucs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Swarms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drones]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nuc]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1124</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>With the weather being what it is, I had decided to start my full inspections in the middle of February (instead of early March, per usual.) A full inspection means that I open the hive and pull every frame. What&#8217;s the big deal? There are two big reasons why doing this in February (in a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With the weather being what it is, I had decided to start my full inspections in the middle of February (instead of early March, per usual.) A full inspection means that I open the hive and pull every frame. What&#8217;s the big deal? There are two big reasons why doing this in February (in a normal Winter) is a risk. One involves the cluster. I will break whatever cluster they have, by pulling every frame. In a normal Winter, this might set them back severely. They are unlikely to be able to form the cluster quickly again and, assuming we hit a week where the highs were in the low 40&#8242;s, a bunch of baking brood would likely die as the colony would not be able to keep them warm enough. But the second reason why this is typically ill advised is much more important. Whenever you do a full inspection, you are necessarily pulling the frame with the queen on it. This means you may kill her by accident. Normally, in mid-February (in my experience), no drones are about. This means that a new queen cannot be mated. Therefore, killing your queen in mid-February is normally a death sentence for the hive. Thus, only the foolish or those with a high risk tolerance (they don&#8217;t mind losing a hive or two if it furthers their knowledge of honey bees) will break a hive up this time of year.</p>
<p>So, why would I go into 10 hives today (well, 6 hives and 4 overwintered nucs)? The weather has simply been very unusual for Richmond, Virginia beekeepers this year. Based on my calculations (which, as ludicrous as it may sound, are based on a hybrid Maple&#8217;s blooming date this year, vs previous years), I thought that Drones might be walking on the comb as of today (and I mean exactly today!) So, I took the risk. I figured that I would be unlikely to kill any of the queens, but worse case could only be one dead queen. I was willing to take the risk.</p>
<p>I started out going through a full hive. I found capped drone brood (= drone walking on the comb by March 1 for sure). Stores were great, population was great and brood pattern was at a 10 (I ran into several 8&#8242;s that day and one 5, but this one was a 10 &#8211; Grade A Queen and definite Nuc parent.) I then hit my 4 Nuc&#8217;s. All looked good except for 1, which was literally slam out of food. They had a small brood nest (but the pattern was a 9) and no food. This was the swarm that I found in one of my deeps in the shed last Fall. You can&#8217;t expect a Fall Nuc to build up much, but these guys were completely out (I had a Nov swarm that had more). This got them a 2 on the Winter Stores scale. We&#8217;ll see how they score out by March. But, the bottom line is that they will live to March because of my inspection today. When I found them without any honey, I dropped a fully frame of capped honey from the hive that I started the series with. That will get them by for 2 or 3 weeks (based on their population), when I&#8217;ll check &#8216;em again.</p>
<p>At this point, with the exception of the one nearly starved Nuc, I had found Drone cells (capped) in the one hive and all Nucs. Opening the last Nuc, I figured to find the same. Wait? What was that? A Drone just starting to make his way out of the cell!! In truth, only his eyes were visible. Being the lazy male that he is, the workers have to cut him out of his cell. So, there he was, smiling at me. <em>This means drones will be walking on the comb in a day or two!!!</em></p>
<p>Why do I care about walking drones? This is the number one flag for Nuc makers. If a Drone is walking on the comb, you know with near absolute certainty that Drones will be flying to Drone Congregation Areas in 14 days. You also know that it takes a Queen 16 days (give or take a day) to hatch and another week (at least) before she heads out to be mated. So, if you see walking Drones, you can start a Nuc on that very day and feel comfortable that Drones will be out to mate with your virgin queen when she is ready! So, <strong>walking drones</strong> are critical for Nuc makers and Queen rearers.</p>
<p>So, seeing one trying to poke out was encouraging. But, I was not that excited, as I had expected to see one walking&#8230;wait..what was that?! A big, fat beggar drone making his way among the workers looking for food! And this was just a Nuc! Ha! Drones are out in central Virginia! Booyah! (Man, I love this time of year.)</p>
<p>For me, I like to wait a week or so after the first Walking Drone so that I get more drones out there for my queens. I have no idea if it makes a difference or not (I will experiment one of these years, but not this year.) So, my target date for the first round of Nucs (March 3 to 5) is holding steady!</p>
<p>All in all, the inspections went well. I didn&#8217;t get deep into several of the larger hives, as it started to get a bit late. If you go into a hive and break her apart , they need some time to get back together even in this kind of weather. I don&#8217;t like to break them up inside of 2 hours before sunset when the temps are going down into the 40&#8242;s or lower that night. Regardless, all hives are alive and (with the exception of the one Nuc) with more then enough stores to make them to the holly bloom. Dandilions are blooming now (although I do not see my bees working them.)</p>
<p>We&#8217;ll see what March has in store, but I&#8217;m going on record saying that this will forever after be known as the <em>Year of the Swarm</em>. It is very clear to me, based on full hives and nucs, that the bees are ramping up very strong right now. I am confident saying that swarms will happen the first week of March around Richmond, Virginia. I&#8217;d bet big money on it.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Bee Rescue in February</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/bee-removal/bee-rescue-february.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/bee-removal/bee-rescue-february.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 11:17:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bee Removal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1117</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">Cutting Bee Logs the Old Fashioned Way</p> <p>A fellow down on River Road (south of the James River in Richmond, Virginia) had some fellows removing trees from his yard earlier this week. On Tuesday, they cut a piece out of a big poplar and (when it hit the ground) bees erupted from it (according [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_1118" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/BeeRescue.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1118" title="Bee Log Rescue" src="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/BeeRescue-300x225.jpg" alt="Taking a bee log away from a site" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Cutting Bee Logs the Old Fashioned Way</p></div>
<p>A fellow down on River Road (south of the James River in Richmond, Virginia) had some fellows removing trees from his yard earlier this week. On Tuesday, they cut a piece out of a big poplar and (when it hit the ground) bees erupted from it (according to the tree cutters, <em>ten thousand of the things!</em>) They quickly gave that tree a lot of room.</p>
<p>The home owner got on the net and found my name, giving me a call. Unfortunately, it was a work week (and this seemed a low probability of success, quite frankly &#8211; queen is likely a goner and who knows what happened to the honey stores) and my weekend is booked with a beekeeping course that I am teaching. So, I called one of the fellows from my back-up list (David Stover, also a member of ERBA) and he was able to go out with some friends and get that log cut and moved on.</p>
<p>If we&#8217;re lucky, that&#8217;s one more colony saved!</p>
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		<title>Maples in Bloom</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/spring/maples-bloom.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/spring/maples-bloom.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2012 02:12:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Nucs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drones]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1106</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">Red Maple Blooms in January</p> <p>I was amazed to see that my hybrid Red Maples were in bloom yesterday (1/29), to the east of Richmond, Virginia. Last year, these same maples bloomed a couple of weeks before the main Maple bloom, so I checked my records and found that they bloomed in mid-February in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_1109" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Red-Maple-Bloom.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1109" title="Red Maple Bloom" src="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Red-Maple-Bloom-300x297.jpg" alt="Red Maple Bloom" width="300" height="297" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Red Maple Blooms in January</p></div>
<p>I was amazed to see that my hybrid Red Maples were in bloom yesterday (1/29), to the east of Richmond, Virginia. Last year, these same maples bloomed a couple of weeks before the main Maple bloom, so I checked my records and found that <a title="Maples Blooming in Spring" href="/spring/maples-blooming.html">they bloomed in mid-February in 2011</a> last year. You shouldn&#8217;t draw a major conclusion from this, at least in the beekeeping world. Of course, I will draw a few just for kicks!</p>
<p>After doing a little more research and I located <a title="Observation of Walking Drones" href="/spring/walking-drones-lessons.html">my first observation of walking drones in 2011</a>, 22 days later on March 11&#8230; The implied conclusion (that I might see walking drones 22 days from yesterday, or on February 20) is a bit of a stretch (I do not think the appearance of drones is based on hybrid Maple blooms&#8230;.), but it still bears watching.</p>
<p>To some extent, this is becoming a trek down the proverbial (is Alice in Wonderland a proverb?! heh&#8230;) rabbit hole! What if we do find drones on our combs in late February? Can we actually start Nuc&#8217;s then? I have heard of some folks who started Nucs during the 1st week of March a few years back. But, what of the risk? The odds of a &#8216;cold snap&#8217; increase the earlier you start your Nucs. Will they struggle to raise a new queen? What about the mating flight?</p>
<p>All interesting questions. I look forward to pushing the envelope to see how it goes. The way this weather is going, I feel confident that I&#8217;ll be starting Nucs the first week of March at the latest!</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>First Log Entries of the Year</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/winter/log-entries-year.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/winter/log-entries-year.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Jan 2012 13:03:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Winter]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1098</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>This has surely been the weirdest January that I have lived through in Richmond, Va &#8211; it is certainly the warmest in my memory (which really isn&#8217;t saying much&#8230;) We are getting frequent high&#8217;s in the 50&#8242;s, with occasional high&#8217;s in the 60&#8242;s, while Alaska and areas to the Northwest are going through one of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This has surely been the weirdest January that I have lived through in Richmond, Va &#8211; it is certainly the warmest in my memory (which really isn&#8217;t saying much&#8230;) We are getting frequent high&#8217;s in the 50&#8242;s, with occasional high&#8217;s in the 60&#8242;s, while Alaska and areas to the Northwest are going through one of the more brutal Winters on record! Regardless, we&#8217;ve finally been getting a few days with high&#8217;s in the 40&#8242;s again and this provides an interesting entry for the beekeeping journal.</p>
<p>One of the best things that I did as an early beekeeper was to begin making journal entries on my hives. It started with simple notes, such as date, weather, hive temperament and any unusual observations. As time went on, I added items (and removed some), including # of frames of brood, # of frames of resources, pests, number of bees with deformed wing virus, and the list goes on. It&#8217;s amazing how valuable this resource has been. Occasionally reviewing the old entries of a particularly strong hive or even a weak hive has been very educational. You are able to step back and view the big picture, instead of focusing (and frequently fretting!) on the individual events of the day. This has proven particularly invaluable in identifying the best hives to breed new colonies from.</p>
<p>One of the things that you can observe in a normal January is &#8216;Russian&#8217; behavior. The Russian strain of Apis mellifera is known to fly at lower temperatures than the other honey bee strains. I like this trait and make a note of which hives fly in the upper 30&#8242;s (something I rarely see, except on a really sunny day) and the 40&#8242;s. All honey bees should be out doing their business once we hit the 50&#8242;s, but the lower temperatures are always of interest. Flying early is a benefit, in my opinion. I view it as &#8216;good work-ethic&#8217;, as it usually means they are out the door earlier in the morning to collect nectar in the early Spring (when temps can be low on occasion) and may work a bit later. It&#8217;s just an opinion, but I&#8217;ll keep tracking it to see if I find trends down the road.</p>
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		<title>Beginning Beekeeping Class in Richmond, Va</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/winter/beginning-beekeeping-class-richmond-va.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/winter/beginning-beekeeping-class-richmond-va.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2012 21:01:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Winter]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1090</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">Winter Nectar Source</p> <p>It&#8217;s been a wild Fall/Winter, to be sure. The weather has never really gotten into a good &#8216;winter groove&#8217; and there are frequently times when it simply feels like Spring! Today, the temps are  currently approaching the mid-60&#8242;s&#8230;that&#8217;s about 25 degrees above the average High for this time of year in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_1092" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Bees-on-Maple.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1092" title="Bees on Maple" src="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Bees-on-Maple-300x201.jpg" alt="Bees enjoying maple syrup in Winter" width="300" height="201" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Winter Nectar Source</p></div>
<p>It&#8217;s been a wild Fall/Winter, to be sure. The weather has never really gotten into a good &#8216;winter groove&#8217; and there are frequently times when it simply feels like Spring! Today, the temps are  currently approaching the mid-60&#8242;s&#8230;that&#8217;s about 25 degrees above the <strong>average High</strong> for this time of year in Richmond, Virginia. In truth, we always get a day that rises into the 50&#8242;s (at least) in January, but we really have yet to get any real Winter weather this year. We still have a few months to go, but it&#8217;s a far cry from last year. I really doubt that it&#8217;s going to be too bad.</p>
<p>What does this mean to the beekeeper? For one, folks call him about &#8216;swarms on the Maple trees&#8217;. As most beekeepers know, there is a zero percent chance that any hive is going to swarm in January. It may abscond because someone cut down the tree they were in or whatnot, but they are not going to be swarming. Add this bit of knowledge to the fact that I had already noticed the bees enjoying the sap coming out of my Maples and I was (hopefully) able to calm the fellow down. The woodpecker creates the holes and the sap (maple syrup) comes out when it warms up a bit. This draws the bees. Does this hurt the tree? As my Pop would say, &#8216;It didn&#8217;t help it any&#8217;, but I have never seen any longterm issue and my maples are huge (a good 4 to 6&#8242; in width at the base.)</p>
<p>On a general, <em>What&#8217;s going on</em> note, we are ramping up the <a title="Beginning Beekeeping Class in Richmond, VA" href="http://www.eastrichmondbees.org/2011/12/17/beginner-beekeeping-class/" target="_blank">first Beginning Beekeeping class</a> at the <a title="ERBA" href="http://www.eastrichmondbees.org/" target="_blank">East Richmond Beekeepers Association</a>. Over the past few years, I have received a lot of &#8216;come help me&#8217; calls from folks in Richmond and the surrounding areas. When I get there, I have found that many of these folks (close to 75%) have actually attended another Beekeeping class held in our area. Sadly, their questions have always been very basic questions. This got me to thinking &#8211; I am willing to bet that these classes spend several days going over every single aspect of beekeeping. This is a worthy objective, but I believe that it causes some folks to miss the forest for the trees. In my opinion, there is a core bit of knowledge that a <strong>new beekeeper</strong> needs to know. This pretty much focuses on what to do with a hive from just before they get their Nuc/Package to about June or so. These early months are crucial. I postulated that maybe they were being taught too much at such an early stage. <em>How about a class that really focuses on these early months with a follow up class (say in May) for some of the other information?</em> So, I spearheaded a new class at ERBA.</p>
<div id="attachment_1093" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Dandilion-in-December.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1093" title="Dandilion in December" src="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Dandilion-in-December-300x201.jpg" alt="December Dandilion Bloom" width="300" height="201" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Who Says There is nothing blooming in December?</p></div>
<p>As a side benefit, I have really taken to a philosophy that merges <strong>Practical Beekeeping</strong> (as espoused by renown beekeepers such as <a href="http://www.bushfarms.com/bees.htm" target="_blank">Michael Bush</a>) with <strong>Sustainable Beekeeping </strong>(heralded by Brother Adam, a beekeeper of yesteryear, but heavily promoted today about another esteemed beekeeper, Michael Palmer.) There are aspects to this philosophy that every beginning beekeeper should know. So, I decided to focus the class on this philosophy.</p>
<p>We start in February and I expect a great class! But, I plan to get a lot of anonymous feedback in case we miss the mark.</p>
<p>What&#8217;s going on in my hives? Well, many still have plenty of honey. I opened several hives today and actually pulled frames in the brood nest. Very little evidence of laying, actually, but tons of honey. All of this warm weather had me worried, but I guess the bees are holding their stores close to their vests. I also do not have any losses yet, but I am expecting them (if I get them) in the Feb/Mar timeframe. We have a fair number of dandilions blooming and they are bringing in some kind of red pollen (or were, in late December), so I am happy.</p>
<p>The cool thing is that the Big Fun Time in beekeeping is probably no more then 2 months away! Bonzai! I can hardly wait.</p>
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		<title>Rendering Wax for the First Time</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/hive-products/rendering-wax-time.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/hive-products/rendering-wax-time.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Dec 2011 03:50:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hive Products]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wax]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1087</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I finally go around to rendering wax for the first time! It was an interesting adventure. Many folks write and commented on the fact that you shouldn&#8217;t do it in your kitchen. Of course, I ignored all of that (I can be careful &#8211; no big deal!) That was big mistake number 1&#8230;</p> <p>I am [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I finally go around to rendering wax for the first time! It was an interesting adventure. Many folks write and commented on the fact that you shouldn&#8217;t do it in your kitchen. Of course, I ignored all of that (<em>I can be careful &#8211; no big deal!</em>) That was big mistake number 1&#8230;</p>
<p>I am not sure that I would follow this method again, but I basically took an old crab broiler that I had and put it on the stove (again, in my kitchen&#8230;). I then took an old boiler (for making things like creme brule) and cut my wax into it to melt it. It melted find and then I poured it through a screen (like a window screen) into milk cartons that I had cut the tops off of. Effectively, I was pulling out any of the bee parts or bits of brood comb that were not wax and making it pure. All of the cartons look great (I hope to make a candle or two before Xmas), but I did have spillage&#8230;and fire&#8230;</p>
<p>Unfortunately, the boiler slipped into the water on one go&#8230; This meant wax and water mixed a bit, in BOTH the boiler (with melted wax) and the larger broiler (with boiling water.) No real big deal, except when I put more water in the broiler and some of it splashed off the side onto the stove!</p>
<p>Two bad things happen when this occurs. First, wax gets on the stove which is very hard to get up. My significant other was not pleased about that one. The second is that a fire starts. Wax, if you didn&#8217;t know it, burns a bit like fuel. Before it was over, I had a fire extinguisher out and dousing the flame (and covering the stove with fire extinguisher dust&#8230;) Unfortunately, my wife did not buy the argument that &#8216;at least the house didn&#8217;t burn down&#8217; and this only added fuel to <strong>her flame</strong>. I had no fire extinguisher for that one&#8230;someone needs to invent that.</p>
<p>So, next year I will be doing it outside. I actually mentioned that a hot plate might be a good Christmas gift&#8230; On a bright note, I had purchase one of the wax-melters from Dadant last Spring. This turned out to be a huge boon, as I put everything in that thing and the wax dribbled down into a container, nearly 100% pure right there. What it helps with is anything with brood comb. That stuff doesn&#8217;t melt. You can put a whole frame of wax from old brood comb into a boiler and only get a few spoonfuls of wax. It&#8217;s very messy &#8211; it really isn&#8217;t worth it. <strong>But</strong>, if you let mother nature do the work during the Summer, it works like a champ.</p>
<p>At any rate, lessons learned all around. This time, I should have listened to everyone&#8217;s advice&#8230;</p>
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		<title>Dadant &#8211; Free Shipping</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/local-news/dadant-free-shipping.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/local-news/dadant-free-shipping.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:03:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Local News]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1085</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Just got off the phone with Mark in the Dadant Chatham branch and he advised that they will be offering free shipping from Nov 28 to Dec 12 this year. It&#8217;s a great opportunity to pick up any gear for the 2012 season.</p> ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just got off the phone with Mark in the <a title="Dadant Beekeeping Supplies - Chatham Branch" href="http://www.dadant.com/branch/lyn.html" target="_blank">Dadant Chatham branch</a> and he advised that they will be offering free shipping from Nov 28 to Dec 12 this year. It&#8217;s a great opportunity to pick up any gear for the 2012 season.</p>
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		<title>No Brood! The Queen Isn&#8217;t Laying!</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/beehive-observations/brood-queen-laying.html</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2011 04:50:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hive Observation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Winter]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1080</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>With the warm weather in Richmond, Va. this past weekend (it was 69 when I checked on the hive called Westover), I went around to pull some of the last remaining extra supers that I had on hives. I also took a peak at any hives that didn&#8217;t feel heavy. My goal was to simply [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With the warm weather in Richmond, Va. this past weekend (it was 69 when I checked on the hive called Westover), I went around to pull some of the last remaining extra supers that I had on hives. I also took a peak at any hives that didn&#8217;t <strong>feel</strong> heavy. My goal was to simply go down to the brood nest and pull one or two frames in the center of the hives to check on the brood nest. To be honest, I had just gotten through doing a lot of reading on American Foulbrood (AFB)&#8230; For those who have not delved into it much, this disease has one <strong>really nasty </strong>effect &#8211; you can actually lose an entire apiary if it takes hold of just one hive.</p>
<p>Effectively, the spores spread into the honey. So, when the hive finally weakens to the point where it is robbed, the other bees in your yard take the tainted honey back to their hives and the infection starts all over again. To be fair, the State Apiarist has told me multiple times this year that AFB has been almost non-existent in Virginia this year. But, all I had to do was read up on it during a quiet moment one weekend and it&#8217;s been bugging me ever since (<em>is that hive just light or is it really suffering from AFB? Will I end up losing the whole apiary if I don&#8217;t check now?!</em>) At any rate, I went into a few hives for the last time (I have said this so many times that I&#8217;m probably the only one that really believes it at this point) until January.</p>
<p>The very first hive that I went into had next to no brood. Here we go, I figured. I found the queen and she looked great. The honey stores were fine and the colony was strong in numbers. No signs of deformed wings or anything weird. Basically, except for the lack of brood, everything looked great. At this point, I was actually irritated (<em>what the heck?! these guys were fine 3 or 4 weeks ago! tons of brood! now, she just decides to fail on me?!</em>) On to the next apiary with a weak hive, still cogitating on what I should do about this hive. New apiary, new hive &#8211; again, no brood!!!! Now I am starting to freak out. Then, I remember (I am getting old&#8230;hell, I am old) that it&#8217;s late November! We&#8217;ve had a couple of nights below freezing&#8230;the day length is shortening quickly&#8230;EQUALS the queen stops laying!</p>
<p>Heh. The weather was so warm that I really had pushed it from my mind that we were well into the Bee&#8217;s Winter. But, to squash any possible nagging doubts in the days/weeks ahead, I broke down all of the hives in that apiary (5 in total). Every one the same &#8211; always no eggs (well, if they were there, I missed them) along with either no capped brood or just a handful. My queens are taking their well-deserved vacation! They won&#8217;t start up again until the days start getting longer again, probably in January.</p>
<p>The real key to this is that I now realize that I do not think that I have ever been into the brood nest of one of my hives in late November, so I have never seen this before. Of course, I could be crying the blues come Jan/Feb if all of these hives do have a serious problem, but I am pretty comfortable that everything is good to go. Regardless, this little surprise has me determined to go into a brood nest in January. I sort of went into one last January, when I was trying to save the Albo hive (which did survive, but I whacked the queen in April) and slid the frames to the middle of the hive, pulling one of the outside frames before I did so. I look forward to seeing what they are doing.</p>
<p><strong>IMPORTANT</strong>: I do NOT recommend that anyone reading this blog actually break open the brood nest at any time after October 15 and before March 1, especially not in January or February. When I do it, it will be on a strong hive that I can stand to lose if something goes wrong. But, I am confident (or is that foolish) that I can do it if I get a day in the 50&#8242;s (we always do) in Jan.</p>
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		<title>Great VSBA Fall Meeting</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/reminders/great-vsba-fall-meeting.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/reminders/great-vsba-fall-meeting.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2011 15:33:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jajtiii</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Beehive Reminders]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1070</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>The Virginia State Beekeepers Association had another great Fall meeting a few weeks ago, focusing on Honey Bee nutrition. The keynote speaker, Dave Mendes (President of the American Beekeepers Federation), focused on protein feeding. To his operation (of many thousands of hives that he trucks to California (Almonds) and the northern states (Blueberries &#38; Cranberries)), [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Virginia State Beekeepers Association had another great Fall meeting a few weeks ago, focusing on Honey Bee nutrition. The keynote speaker, Dave Mendes (President of the American Beekeepers Federation), focused on protein feeding. To his operation (of many thousands of hives that he trucks to California (Almonds) and the northern states (Blueberries &amp; Cranberries)), feeding protein at the right time makes all the difference. His mantra is &#8216;good food + clean comb + good genetics = success&#8217;. I have long been a proponent of clean comb and good genetics, but have not focused much on nutrition. It has always been my belief that bees with good genetics will find the right food, unless the beekeeper takes it all (which I don&#8217;t.) But, I am starting to rethink this idea.</p>
<p>For a couple of years now, a successful beekeeper in Buckingham county that I collaborate with, has been talking up nutrition, specifically in the Fall (which was the theme of a couple of talks at the VSBA meeting.) I have always been reluctant to experiment with this, ONLY because of the SHB. I had found out early on that pollen patties in my hives in August meant SHB problems. But, Dave had an answer for that &#8211; you put your feed mix (he called it protein feed, as opposed to pollen feeding) into a wax paper bag with a single slit in it &#8211; giving the bees an easy area to defend. He also stressed that you only wanted to give them what they could eat in a couple of days. These two items have me thinking that next Fall I will give protein feeding another shot, in a hive or two. We&#8217;ll see how it works.</p>
<p>It only makes sense that giving the bees a source of quality protein at this time (early August for me) would be beneficial. In early August, they are raising the bees that will eventually raise the bees that go into Winter, or what I call the &#8216;fat bees.&#8217; This is a critical time for all beehives, so a little extra quality feed can help. Dave Mendes recommended the publication &#8216;Fat Bees Skinny Bees&#8217; by Doug Somerville (sp?), as this seemed to be the basis of his methods. I&#8217;ve posted his <a title="Secret Protein Recipe by Dave Mendes" href="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/bee-notes/secret-protein-recipe-dave-mendes" target="_blank">&#8216;secret recipe&#8217; here</a>.</p>
<p>Another really interesting talk focused on Nosema ceranae. The researcher had found that it appears that this newest Nosema has been around longer then we had thought. In addition, it is starting to look like it is displacing Nosema apis. It&#8217;s hard to say whether this is a good thing or not. Regardless, we are seeing an increased presence of this virus, so they are watching it closely.</p>
<p>There was another great talk on feeding, by a fellow along the VA/NC line who focuses on selling bees and queens. He mirrored much of what Dave said, but was even more adamant about the early Fall feeding. He had found that feeding at this time was much better for the bees then any type of feeding in the Spring (syrup or protein) or even feeding during the Winter months. The bottom line was that he found that his bees came out of Winter much healthier with a focused, late Fall feeding. He also noted that the presence of Drones, Drone larva and Drone eggs was a big determinate for feeding protein at other times of the year. Bees with weak protein stores or sources would eat the Drone larva first, then the Drone eggs, for protein. A lack of both of these, in a Spring/Summer hive, was a sign that the quality of the pollen coming in was poor.</p>
<p>There were many other good tidbits of knowledge, but those are the ones that hit home the most for me at this stage. I want to start looking at Fall nutrition. We&#8217;ll see where it takes me!</p>
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		<title>Oct Swarm Has a Queen!</title>
		<link>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/winter/oct-swarm-queen.html</link>
		<comments>http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/winter/oct-swarm-queen.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Oct 2011 01:44:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jones Tyler</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Swarm Management]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Winter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[queen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Swarm]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/?p=1052</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>As posted back on the 19th, I actually picked up a swarm of bees this month in Richmond, Virginia! October? Well, I&#8217;ve been through that before. A swarm caught in August requires work to get through our Winters. One caught in September requires a lot of work and you are still at high risk. I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As <a title="October Swarm?" href="http://beekeeping.varinagardens.com/swarms/october-swarm.html">posted back on the 19th</a>, I actually picked up a swarm of bees this month in Richmond, Virginia! October? Well, I&#8217;ve been through that before. A swarm caught in August requires work to get through our Winters. One caught in September requires a lot of work and you are still at high risk. I would have to say that the chance that an October swarm will make it is next to zilch. Fortunately for me, I love a challenge.</p>
<p>Once I got the swarm back to my house, I put 5 frames of drawn wax with 5 frames of foundation in a Deep and placed a top feeder on them. Most will ask &#8216;why didn&#8217;t you put them in a Nuc?!&#8217; It&#8217;s a valid question. The main reason I put them into the Deep was because of their need for feed. I know you can feed a Nuc, but I have found that my Beemax top feeders (for full-sized hives only &#8211; they have something similar for Nucs, but I do not own any) are the absolute best mechanism for me to get syrup into hives. It was Oct 19! I had no time to mess with an entrance feeder (plus, I was worried about robbing). So, I gave them drawn wax to immediately start laying in and foundation (in case they were a swarm and were ready to build wax, like Spring swarms do.) I dropped the feeder on them and began feeding them.</p>
<p>At the last moment, I dropped another deep frame that I had which was mostly honey but had been ravaged by SHB back in July. I had frozen the frame for 3 days and kept it in my basement since then. Although I knew some of the honey was shot, I figured some would be fine for them (I had already seen the bees clean out 2 similar frames when I placed them out in the open in my Nuc yard earlier in the year, so I knew there was value in what the frame had in it.)</p>
<p>The problem is that these frames have a different scent to them. It seems to really draw bees quickly, which I really didn&#8217;t think about when I dropped it into the October swarm. The next day, it <strong>looked</strong> like I had a robbing situation. As always (and usually to my detriment &#8211; and the bees!), I try to get into the heads of my bees &#8211; I figured that <em>we have a new swarm of bees, moved about while being captured and now in a new location (trying to get oriented) and I have created a robbing scenario! Before they could even get their feet under them!</em> Now, it&#8217;s going to be hard to follow my twisted logic, but hang in there&#8230;</p>
<p>Seeing what I thought was robbing, I looked closer and could see bees fanning OUT of the hive. At that exact time, I thought that this was the bees trying to get the scent of the SHB frame out of the hive, which (again, enjoy the roller coaster ride of my weird logic) was only inviting more robbers! I did my quick trick of dropping a wet towel over the hive and waited until nightfall to remove it and seriously reduce the entrance.</p>
<p>So, all kinds of things are going through my head now. On day 3, I finally figured out that it wasn&#8217;t robbing. It was merely flight orientation of a ton of bees (remember, the whole hive (experienced foragers included) had to reorient.) I know full well that you need to see a lot of fighting to know that there is robbing going on (which I hadn&#8217;t seen), but I figured (here I go again&#8230;) that the problem was that the swarm had never really made the hive their home &#8211; so they weren&#8217;t defending it yet. Oh well.</p>
<p>So, the weekend arrives and I go in to have a look. These bees were making really good use of the feeder and had basically put cured syrup (most of it was already honey) in ALL of the frames. What the?! Is the queen going to lay anywhere. Again, cursed with my brain, I began to think back on the fanning bees and dropping the wet towel on them. <em>Did I have  virgin queen in this swarm that had gone out only to be thwarted from returning by my towel?!?!</em> I checked again &#8211; no queen and no place to lay. I could also see a few gals still fanning, as if to say &#8216;<em>The grand lady will be coming home any moment now &#8211; keep sending our scent out there to guide her home!&#8217;</em></p>
<p>At this point, I was pretty sure that I had lost the swarm and would need to combine. But, I know full well to let the bees alone for as long as possible before enacting my own will upon them. So, I decided to give it another week.</p>
<p>Today, as the temps rose into the upper 50&#8242;s, I opened up the Deep to have a look. I actually had a Nuc setup nearby, as I expected that I would not find a queen and wanted to combine them with another Nuc that I have from an Irene cut-out. Much of the syrup in the frames had been moved, but no eggs. The problem was that it was still somewhat cold and there were a lot of bees in this swarm &#8211; they were very good at fully covering all 5 drawn frames. I find that lightly blowing on bees makes them disperse, so I was able to check a few cells to no avail. I did find where they were drawing wax (before today, if anyone told me a bee would  draw wax in October, I&#8217;d think they were smoking crack), but nothing&#8230;until frame 4! The queen! There she was, inspecting a cell and inserting her abdomen into it! Bonzai! Patience, when it comes to bees, always pays off for me.</p>
<p>These bees have a tough road in front of them. I did not notice any pollen, but the bees were covering nearly every cell. They have about 20% of the honey that they will need for the Winter. They also are only now building up brood. I have no idea how hardy the current set of bees are (are they made up of Winter bees? how many are Winter bees that can make it to February?!) If I had more experience with October swarms, I&#8217;d know what to do. The wise man would probably kill the queen and combine with one of my hardy Nuc&#8217;s. But, I have never been called a wise man! So, we&#8217;re going to see how it goes.</p>
<p>What&#8217;s up next? Over the next week, we&#8217;ll have good beekeeping weather (temps closing on or even eclipsing 70). I plan to go out to the Albo hive and pull at least two Deep frames of honey. I also plan to grab a shallow or a medium off of one of the hives at Shirley Plantation (they have extra supers on them). This super will not be full of capped honey, but it will be at least 50% full, based on my last inspection. Finally, I will add a spacer on this hive and put a few pollen patties on them (I have the mix, but have never made them, so be ready for another adventure posted here in the next month or so.) I think that will give them the best chance at making it.</p>
<p>(I may initiate another plan, moving them to a 2 Nuc high setup &#8211; depends on how many deep frames I feel comfortable taking from Albo &#8211; plus, I do not have a Nuc spacer, so I&#8217;ll have to build one &#8211; another reason why this option is the least likely one&#8230;.)</p>
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